Memphis Barbecue

Memphis is pork town. Its barbecue is built on ribs and pulled pork shoulder, and its great debate is not about which meat, but whether your ribs should be dry or wet.

A pork-first tradition

On the Mississippi River in western Tennessee, Memphis developed a barbecue culture centered on pork: ribs, shoulder, and the pulled pork sandwich. Hickory smoke and charcoal are common, and the sauces lean tangy and tomato-based. The city also hosts the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, whose championship categories are all pork: ribs, shoulder and whole hog among them.

Dry ribs

"Dry" ribs are seasoned with a dry rub before cooking and often dusted with more rub as they come off the heat, with no sauce brushed on. The rub typically includes paprika, garlic, salt, pepper and a mix of other herbs and spices, sometimes with a little sugar. Sauce may be offered on the side. The result is a savory, crusty rib that showcases the seasoning and smoke.

Wet ribs

"Wet" ribs are brushed with sauce during the last part of the cook and often again before serving. Memphis sauce is tomato-based and usually thinner and tangier than Kansas City sauce, with vinegar, spices and a moderate sweetness. The sauce sets into a sticky, glossy coating.

Many places offer both, and some diners order "half and half." There is no wrong answer.

The pulled pork sandwich

The other pillar of Memphis barbecue is pork shoulder, smoked until tender and pulled or chopped, then piled on a bun, sauced, and topped with coleslaw. The slaw adds crunch and cools the spice. It is a cousin of the Carolina sandwich but usually with a sweeter, tomato-based sauce rather than straight vinegar.

Beyond ribs and shoulder

Memphis cooks also put pulled pork on less expected foods, such as barbecue spaghetti, barbecue nachos and barbecue pizza. Smoked sausage and cheese plates and smoked bologna are other local favorites.

Cooking Memphis ribs at home

  1. Choose ribs. Spare ribs or baby back ribs both work. Baby backs are smaller and cook faster; spare ribs are meatier.
  2. Prep. Remove the thin membrane from the bone side and trim loose fat.
  3. Rub. Apply a paprika-based dry rub generously. Keep the ribs in the refrigerator until they go on.
  4. Smoke. Use hickory or a mix of hickory and fruitwood. Keep the smoker between 225 and 300 °F, as the USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service recommends.
  5. Check tenderness. Ribs are done when the meat has pulled back from the ends of the bones and the rack bends easily when lifted, with the surface starting to crack.
  6. Finish dry or wet. For dry, dust with more rub. For wet, brush with sauce during the last 15 to 30 minutes, as FSIS advises for sauces.

Use a food thermometer to confirm the meat has passed FSIS's safe minimum of 145 °F with a three-minute rest for whole cuts of pork. Ribs are cooked well beyond that for tenderness.

Memphis-style pulled pork

Follow our pulled pork guide, using a paprika-forward rub and hickory smoke. Pull the meat, toss with a tangy tomato sauce, and serve on buns topped with coleslaw.

A simple Memphis-style dry rub

As a starting point, combine paprika as the base with smaller amounts of salt, black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, a little brown sugar, dried oregano or thyme, celery seed and a pinch of cayenne. Adjust to taste. See rubs.

The Memphis plate

  • A half or full rack of ribs, dry or wet
  • A pulled pork sandwich with slaw
  • Baked beans and coleslaw
  • White bread

Compare with Kansas City, Carolina and Texas, or see all regional styles. For pork you can order ready to reheat, see Carolina style pulled pork.

Frequently asked

Which is better, dry or wet?

Neither. Dry ribs showcase rub and smoke; wet ribs add a sticky, tangy glaze. Order half and half if you cannot decide.

Baby backs or spare ribs?

Both are common. Baby backs cook faster and are leaner; spare ribs are meatier with more fat.

Do I need to remove the membrane?

Most cooks do. It is tough when cooked and blocks the rub from the bone side.

A Memphis rib night at home

Smoke two racks the same way, then finish one dry, dusted with extra rub, and one wet, brushed with tangy sauce in the last 15 to 30 minutes. Serve them side by side with slaw, beans and white bread, and let everyone vote. It is the quickest way to understand why Memphis has argued about ribs for so long.

Sources

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